When archeologists were excavating the Ocmulgee Mounds during the Great Depression, they uncovered the floor of a council house. Perhaps it’s something that could have happened only during the era of the Works Progress Administration: the archeologists and their laborers reconstructed it.
They reframed the roof, covered the rafters with wattle and mounded earth on top. The entrance is low — you walk through a tunnel, crouching. When you emerge, the high roof makes the chamber feel like a cathedral.
An earthen bench follows the circumference. In the center is a firepit, and the roof is open above the fire.
You can almost see ancient people sitting on those benches, taking counsel.
Arthur Kelly, another Texan who made Georgia his home, led the excavations from 1933 to 1941. The collection of artifacts is on display at a museum.
I’m still trying to piece together the history of the ancient peoples of Georgia. The site on the Ocmulgee River has been occupied for 17,000 years. The mound builders, people of the Mississippian Culture, didn’t arrive until about 800 of the Common Era.
They came from the northwest — you can tell by the pottery. They built a series of mounds, flat-topped and crowned with temples and the homes of chieftains. Like other Mississippian sites, Ocmulgee was near a river and had a plaza and ballfield. The people cultivated immense fields. The main crop was corn.
The Ocmulgee community covered a square mile. It lasted for three centuries.
When the Europeans arrived 400 years later, they found the Muskogee people, whom the English called the Creek Indians. I would love to know more about how one culture emerged from another.
The Ocmulgee Mounds are about 75 miles south of Stone Mountain in Macon. We climbed the Temple Mound, the tallest at 55 feet, and looked at the Ocmulgee River below and the Macon skyline in the distance. It feels like a sacred place.
But this country has treated its heritage with tragic indifference. During the 18th century, workers cut two railroad lines through the mounds. If you visit the site, at least one of the emotions you might feel is rage.
• Note: For an earlier note on the Mississippian Culture in Georgia, see “Etowah, Oct. 8, 2025. It’s here: