Saturday, March 28, 2026

The descent of the Plumed Serpent

 One of the Mexican newspapers said that 9,000 people came to the Temple of the Plumed Serpent on the equinox.

The enormous stone head of the snake is at the base of the pyramid at Chichén Itzá. The temple was designed so that on the equinoxes, triangular shadows are cast on the stairway. It doesn’t take much imagination to see the body of a giant serpent slithering down the steps to join its head.

The newspaper said that many of the pilgrims were dressed in white and raised their arms as the serpent emerged. People told the newspaper they came to recharge their energies.

It was such a strange image that for a minute I forgot what was in the English-language newspapers that morning. I love my newspapers. But in reading them I sometimes get the feeling that everything significant in the world begins with some pronouncement from the White House.

Years ago, I was told that everyone should learn more than one language, just as a way of broadening one’s point of view.

I will never be a fluent Spanish reader. But I’ll continue to plod.

• Note: If you’re having a hard time picturing the spectacle, the Smithsonian has a 30-second video showing The Descent of Kikulkán here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvv9EnBuem4

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The descent of the Plumed Serpent

 One of the Mexican newspapers said that 9,000 people came to the Temple of the Plumed Serpent on the equinox. The enormous stone head of th...